Finishing
With the epoxy fully cured and joints cleaned up, the body is ready for finishing. The goal is a stable, smooth surface — not cosmetically perfect, but solid enough to take hardware without the finish interfering with fit.
Before you start
Confirm the body bonding checkpoints before doing anything else:
- All joints fully cured (minimum 24 hours, full cure per G/Flex spec)
- No visible gaps at any joint line
- Neck pocket flat and square — verify with a straight edge
- Bridge mount area flat — no high spots that would prevent flush seating
Do not proceed to sanding if any of these fail. Gaps and fit problems are easier to address before the surface is worked.
Sanding
Start at 120-grit to level any epoxy squeeze-out and bring joint lines flush with the surrounding surface. Work methodically — remove material from high spots first, then even out the rest.
Progress to finer grits as the surface evens out.
[TODO: describe your full sanding progression — what grits you step through, what you're looking for at each stage, when you know you're done.]
Sealing
[TODO: describe sealing options — what products work with PET-CF, how many coats, drying time. Include what you've tested and what you recommend.]
What's next
With the body finished, the next stage is choosing your voicing and sourcing the voicing-specific parts. Each voicing has its own pickup map, controls, and parts list — pick the sound first, then build the electronics around it.